A Room of One’s Own

Bonderblog: Specifically, my own.

Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Peruvian Freestyle

There's an illusive and precarious balancing point for planning travel trips that I'm still trying to figure out--after all, it's nice to have routes marked out and hostels booked before you hit the road. It also soothes the nerves of the parentals :) But let me tell you--planning out bus routes, hostel schedules, and long-term calendar commitments is probably the most un-glamorous part of traveling (thanks for the spell check, Fergie). The options can be completely overwhelming, and if you're not careful, you'll sit there and micro-manage every last detail. This is particularly difficult for me--I'm a big map-maker/list-creator. I can spend hours comparing options, almost to a point of paralysis! And when there's a city full of living, breathing, amazing possibility outside your hostel, the last thing you want to do is huddle in a corner with your Netbook and price bus-lines.  Blah blah no bueno. It makes my hair fall out (well, this and Mitt Romney).

So. I've started  a mini-retraining process.
Foucault meets Pavlov, if you will.  
When I start obsessing about the baby-deets, I try singing instead some John Lennon instead.
After all, "Life is what happens when you're busy making other plans."

It might have taken me two hours to plan my trip, and I may have been a little obsessive about reading hostel reviews, but I finally made my great Lima escape! Hello from San Andres, a small fishing village between Pisco and Paracas. This is the view from my hostel window. I can see the sky! I can smell salt in the air! There is sun here. I am happy.


I do want to give credit where credit is due. Lima was full of beautiful and unexpected things--things I never could have found in a guidebook, and things I never would have come across had I not stumbled around blindly for a solid set of time (stubbing a few metaphorical toes in the process [note to self: metaphorical toes sound gross--next time, use words better]). The rest of this post is dedicated to the gems de Lima that you just can't plan--the stuff you stumble into. Peruvian freestyle, yo.

Take, for example, this ceviche. Two days ago while wandering my way to a museum (which, come to think of it, I never actually made it to), I discovered this huge expo fair in the middle of downtown district. Huge white tents filled a 2 block radius--and on display? Food, food, food. Also crafts, but I'm a one-track-mind kind of girl. I zoomed in on the ceviche real quick. For 5 sol (~$2), you could buy a plate of fried squid, fried yuca, sweet potato, spiced corn, and fresh, delicious, lime-fish! Now, I've heard mixed reviews about how reliable street food is (especially in Peru, where stomach-flu is common), but really? Can you blame me? I also bought  a pair of brightly-colored llama earrings--character pieces for my future teacher wardrobe.  

I have a lot of weaknesses. Funky jewelry is one of them--hot chocolate is another. I bought a cup of hot chocolate at this fair for dessert, and it was the end of me. I've had a cup every day since then. I think it might be time for some more re-training--just the words "hot chocolate" make me salivate (again, Alaska--quit with the weird images). I digress. Funky fashions are my passions--and while walking around Plaza de Armas yesterday, I came across a parade that was truly inspiring. Several districts of Peru had come together, in traditional dress, and were celebrating Sunday in style. Here's a picture of some of the organized dancing that was going on--watching the skirts swirl is memorizing. They also had guards and ponies on parade, which had a very regal feel (and if we're honest, a not-so-regal smell).


Never underestimate the power of your senses (6th, smell, or otherwise). I can't tell you how many small food stands I've been magnetically drawn to based on how delicious things smell--no matter how full I am. It's Peruvian magic, I tell you! Add this to my list of weaknesses. We encountered one of these mystifying wonders on our exploration of the Miraflores district yesterday--another unexpected delight. Thi, Heather, Paul and I were walking through the main plaza, rather aimlessly, and BOOM, it hit us. Delicious smell + long line = a promise. We're talking about a 30 minute wait, here. Naturally, trying the dish was a must. Everyone else was doing it! The stand was selling Peruvian pumpkin and sweet potato doughnuts, covered in maple syrup. They're called Picarones and they're...mildly tasty? I wasn't impressed after my first *cough* two? But you know what they say--third Picarones' a charm :) By the end, I'd been wooed.


Speaking of charms, I'm writing this down here so I don't forget. 
Cmon, Bonderblog. Hold me accountable. 
Thi, a friend from Australia, has been doing some serious traveling for the past 6 months--and one way she's managed to bring a piece of each place with her is by buying small pendants, charms, earrings, bracelets--whatever draws you in--and eclectically threading them them all onto a single string. It makes for a kick-ass piece of jewelry, and an inspiring way to keep your travels close. I can't begin to imagine what my travels will look like, but I'm positive that they'll manifest into something I'll keep with me for a very, very long time. So wish me luck on the pendant hunt!

My last night in Lima was magic--literally (and not just because I was happy to be moving out of the city!) Heather and I visited Fuente Magica, a huge park in the middle of Lima with almost twenty water fountains. It was a giant oasis, and I great way to end my stay there. The major water-show was synced with classical music, which was entrancing, but I was actually partial to a lot of the smaller fountains. They had Peruvian music playing in the background, and made the air feel--charged, almost? It was lively and lovely and more beautiful than the slow Fantasia-esque show I typically associate with "synchronized fountains." Same amazing Monet-color, more soul.

Here are a few pictures!


I could spend hours watching lights on the water (Gatssssby).


Here's a picture of Heather, en silhouette. The water colors are all melty and lovely at the bottom. Of course, Heather is lovely, too :) And then below is a picture of my favorite part of the park. Despite the chilly weather and quasi-late hour, the park was full of children dancing and playing in the fountain. Huzzah! All hours are play hours in Lima.



Overall, it was a great end to my the city-trip, and a nice way to say goodbye :) The ride from Lima was Paracas was about 4 hours (I watched a lot of Friends), but it was probably more comfortable than any airplane ride I've ever had. Bus #1 success! Hopefully the rest of my buses through South Peru go as smoothly. I have high hopes! I'll try to write more soon. Until then!


Many misses,
<3 ak

2 comments:

  1. Mitt makes your hair fall out?!?!?!?! Oh no lol
    Alaska I miss you! It looks like you're having an awesome time!!! And thank God you're feeling better! Are you in Cuzco now? And are you still on track for Argentina? Curious how your time and money are plaiyng out thus far....are you pacing to be searching for a phone center job by the time you get to India (Finally!!! An American will answer the phone next time I call my bank) or is life on the run less costly than anticipated and planned for?
    Are you ever able to Skype or is the Internet connection insufficient? If so, maybe we can plan a "meeting" for next week? Let me know !
    So happy for you and sorry I've been MIA for the past week or so.
    I love you sister and miss you and hope you are having the experience of a lifetime AND staying safe. Xoxoxo
    Travieso


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  2. What a pleasure reading you! I'm looking forward to the next post and especially see your progress in South America and then in Asia.
    Enjoy and travel safe!
    Alex

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